Arcade - Arcade Cabinets - Taito - Pirate Pete
Cabinet measurements provided by:
Has a cabinet been cut from drawings: Yes
2x sheets of 3/4" MDF OR Black Melamine
1x sheet of 3/4" for Plywood base, pedestal, and internal structure.
Estimate Cabinet Accuracy = 97%
NOTE: There are two sets of build plans for this cabinet.
PLAN 1 "Original" - The first set of plans identified as "Original" are the plans based on the cabinet design that uses all Taito hardware. These plans hold the cabinet together with "L-Brackets" and require multiple drill holes for cabinet assembly. These plans have multiple penetrations on the side of the cabinet for carriage bolts. Original hardware is also needed for the monitor frame.
Plan 2 "No hardware" Uses no custom hardware outside of the reproduction monitor glass / monitor shroud clips and coin door. There are a minimal number of penetrations to the cabinet.
Cut depths are identified in the "drawing specific notes" section.
What does Cabinet Accuracy mean?
Areas of variation:
Note: I have not been able to verify the placement of all of the L-Brackets during the assembly of a cabinet. Some variation may still be present.
This cabinet shares plans with the following games:
Electric Yo Yo
Dedicated Taito cabinet with best fit on all available arts. Extremely rare game. Accurate to within one inch. By Gozer.
Picture of finished cabinet
VCarve Pro drawing
VCarve Pro (Verson 8.024) file
Note: .CRV files do not contain tool paths.
DXF File (CAD file.)
Files to Print
The below files are PDF documents of the plans that are printed to scale. These documents can be taken to your local print shop and printed on 36" wide media. The prints can then be applied to the wood and used as a template to cut the side panels of the cabinet. I have only included the side panels and any other panels that may be more difficult to cut.
Cabinet Art Files
Currently not available
Drawing specific notes
Bellow will be cutting notes for the cabinet. Unless otherwise specified, assume the below drawing specific notes apply to both sets of drawings.
On both sets of drawings, the highlighted area are drawn in only to assist with placement. The trapezoidal piece is 3/4 material (plywood) in the original.
The rectangular piece is 2" thick and bolted through the side of the cabinet in the original drawings only. It is used to support a monitor. Two bolts per side going "top down" are also used to hold the factory monitor frame in place. These are not pictured in the drawings.
This note only applies to the plans not using original hardware.
The areas highlighted below are for blocking. You can use whatever blocking you want, but this is how I did it. Using a Kreg Screw set, I cut 3 pockets in each of the larger blocking, and 2 in the smaller. I then glue the blocking in place and surface screw the blocking down. I then use Kreg Screws for assembly.
On the speaker panel and top, I also use Kreg screws. Just remember to set your panel thickness at 1" instead of .75" This is needed to offset the 1/4" groove.
If you aren't using these screws, you will need to do some blocking for the top and speaker panel.
This was a video I stumbled across cutting a Taito cab using the above plans. It is nice to see the plan being used.... and I am a little jealous of the space and CNC setup. As far as the Taito plans, hopefully everything fit together when completed.... =-)
Last updated 6/21/2016
Special thanks to the contribution by: William Stillwell ( Hamster/KI4SWY ) for verification of the Defender plans and build pictures.
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SITE LAST UPDATED 2/26/2018